This week’s theme is “the winter marketplace.” Korean markets are sometimes warrens of tarpaulins, plywood, umbrellas, and neon; it can be hard to specify whether they are indoors or merely sheltering under a forest canopy of grimy plastic sheets stretched over narrow alleys. In winter, kettles of hot soup and gas burners warming noodles and fish cakes steam the air around this ancient commerce with ichteous perfume and give the bare yellow bulbs the glow of torches. Late at night,...